Cabin top on – for good [11.5 hours]

I’ve fitted the cabin top – for good. It’s riveted on and retained with structural epoxy, so it isn’t coming off again. The RV-10 is often described as the aircraft kit that is 90% metal, and 80% composites. The cabin top goes on and off many times before it is “right”. I finally decided there was no reason for it to come off again, so … on it went. This time I scuffed the door channels and slathered on some flox, dropped the cabin top in place, did up all of the bolts along the door channel and installed rivets along each rear side of the cabin top. Now I have to fill the vertical parts of the door channels with structural epoxy, fit those bolts, and then finish the inside of the door channels with micro, fill primer, then prime and paint to match everything up with the already-painted cabin top interior.

I also primed, assembled and painted the tunnel cover pieces I’ve had laying around for a few months. These are cut and modified because of the control approach rudder pedals, which require slots and doublers in the front most part of the tunnel cover. The spray booth has just about outlived its usefulness, so I’m going to move it out of the workshop to free up some room.

  • f38k
    f38k
    Tunnel covers primed
  • f38j
    f38j
    Front most tunnel cover section, slots for Control Approach rudder pedals
  • f38i
    f38i
    Tunnel cover primed
  • f38g
    f38g
    Overhead ready for final installation
  • f38f
    f38f
    Scuffed door channels before final overhead fitment
  • f38e
    f38e
    Overhead riveted in place
  • f38a
    f38a
    Cabin top riveted on
  • f38d
    f38d
    Front pillars in place for good
  • f38c
    f38c
    Conduits from overhead will fit inside Aerosport Cabin inserts
  • f38b
    f38b
    Fitting cabin top
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