Windows, Conduits, overhead etc. [63.0 hours]

I’ve continued to chip away at the never ending cabin top work. This is clearly the character building part of the RV-10 build. It’s hard to separate activities because the doors, cabin top, windows, etc. are all interdependent. There’s a notorious flat spot on the pillars between the doors and rear windows in the cabin moulding, for instance, which has to be built up to match the door. The front side of the window also has to be spaced out so there isn’t a sudden transition between the door, pillar and window. Can’t do this until the door is fully fitted though. The inside surface where the window is raised will need to be sanded back, so it isn’t different than the rest of the window interior. All of this could have been avoided if the cabin top moulding was fixed up, but Van’s won’t do this, hence the character building.

I trimmed all the windows down to size, using the last of the warm days so I didn’t risk cracking anything by trying to work it in cold weather. I used a dremel tool with a Permagrit wheel for all of the rough trimming, followed by a belt sander with 60, 80, 120 grit belts. When the windows were all trimmed to size I ran around the edge with a 240 grit belt just to be paranoid about removing any scratches. Cutting the windows causes sharp material to fly everywhere, like shrapnel, and it clings to everything. Glad I was able to do all this work outside.

I wanted to run electrical conduits up the front window pillars, but the problem is how to transition them into the Aerosport overhead. I didn’t want to build a front assembly that jutted out, restricting the view forward and upwards from the cockpit. So I 3D printed transition pieces in Nylon that go from the 16mm conduit into a fairly flat channel, and some corresponding channel pieces which when laid together continue the Nylon wiring channel back to the point of accessibility near the forward edge of the front overhead panel. Cut some slits in the front of the overhead, it’s all fairly unobtrusive. A few anchor points inside the roof for Adel clamps completes the wiring capability, so I now have a 16mm conduit from each side up into the overhead space.

With the conduits clamped, I tacked them in place with some dobs of epoxy. Once that cured, I sprayed fireproof expanding foam into each pillar, around the conduits. I then cut the cured foam down to form the shape I wanted on the inside of each pillar. Once the rest of the overhead and door work is done, I’ll do fiberglass layups over this shape. The foam is a bit rough in parts but it’ll be fine as a base to do the layups.

I have a set of Rosen front/side adjustable visors. At one point when the cabin and overhead were on I established the position I wanted the visor mounts, so that the visors just missed the front strut by about 1/4″ when pushed forward. I made an oval metal mount out of 0.025″ Alclad, with two 10-32 nyloc nutplates in the position of the visor mount screws. I oriented these so that they were minimally invasive in the front pillar, which forms part of the rollover protection and shouldn’t be drilled. These were tacked in place with flox, and the way they are positioned I’ll be able to make them merge in when I do the front pillar inside layups, with a bit of filling and sanding.

I drilled the overhead and installed nutplates for the metal inserts. Also did the cutouts for the vents. The carbon fiber is incredibly hard, I completely wrecked a 2″ consumer grade hole saw after just the four holes.

I 3D printed a drill guide for drilling the four holes in the front strut up through the cabin top. The guide worked great.

At one point when I was sick of fiberglass work, I modified the front seat rails, installing AN4 nutplates so that the seats can be removed easily by undoing two bolts, rather than having to take the rail lock off. This is a well known modification that means the seats can be removed in 2 minutes rather than 10-20 minutes of cussing.

Next step is to fit the door struts, and then take the cabin top out, install the overhead, and start on the layups and filling/sanding I need to do in order to finish the interior surfaces.

  • f26h
    f26h
    Drilling for seat rack modification
  • f26i
    f26i
    AN4 nutplates fitted for seat rail modification
  • f26j
    f26j
    Bolts now go in from the top, making seats easy to remove
  • f26k
    f26k
    3D printed drill guide for cabin top strut
  • f26e
    f26e
    Trimming left side door window
  • f26f
    f26f
    Trimming windshield
  • f26g
    f26g
    Fitting windshield
  • f26l
    f26l
    Windshield trimmed, retaining clips in place
  • f26c
    f26c
    Drilling #6 screw holes in overhead
  • f26d
    f26d
    Drilling out overhead vent holes, ruining a hole saw.
  • f27a
    f27a
    3D printing overhead wiring conduit
  • complete
    complete
    Conduit to cabin overhead adapter
  • cutaway
    cutaway
    Cutaway view of overhead conduit adapter
  • f27c
    f27c
    3D printed overhead conduit adapter
  • f27d
    f27d
    Overhead conduits, visor mounts in place
  • f27j
    f27j
    Wires will come out of channels and be secured with Adel clamps
  • f27f
    f27f
    Overhead conduit channels
  • f27i
    f27i
    Overhead conduit channels tacked in place, plus nutplates for wiring clamps
  • f27e
    f27e
    Overhead conduits, visor mounts in place
  • f27b
    f27b
    Tacking overhead conduits and 3D printed adapters in place
  • f27g
    f27g
    Filled out with fireproof spray on foam
  • f27h
    f27h
    Foam cut to shape, ready for fiberglass layups

 

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